Puppy Advice, Please!

[orangeatheist]

Ok. It took years, but I finally got around the Great Barrier (wife) and am getting a dog. Picked her from a litter over the weekend but won't be bringing her home until May 20th when she's a bit older (she's 6 weeks now). Here she is:





And here's her mom. The lady we're getting her from said the pup bears a striking resemblance so here's what she'll look like all grown up:



I know there's a lot of dog-lovers on this forum so I sure could use any pointers on raising the pup. I had a Shepherd when I was a kid (died when I was 19) but I didn't raise her. I've got the crate already for housetraining. Got the "clicker". Got toys, brush, etc.

When I bring her home, I'm planning on putting the crate up in the basement (really, the only good place we have) and then I'm going to set up my inflatable mattress and stay down with her the first couple of nights to help her adjust (good idea? Bad?). I work from home so keeping her company shouldn't be a problem.

So, any advice from you experts? THANKS!!

[Meck77]

Nice pup. Good idea with the crate. I'd stick with it. I learned my lesson with this old dog. Had some problems with her early on but for 15 years she never had an accident. Now that she's a senior citizen let's just say **** happens from time to time. Zima is now 16 years old but trucking on.


I'm sure you've watched the dog whisperer shows. That's all you need to know. Treat your dog like a dog not a child. You'll be fine. Have fun!

[orangeatheist]

I haven't seen the shows, but my buddy told me about the guy. I went out and got his book. He does have some good advice.

I sure wish I had land like that! What freedom! Well...I'll just have to take her up to the hills once in a while. I'm sure she'll love it!

[ElwayMD]

I would vote against sleeping w/ the puppy for the first couple of nights. The puppy will be accustomed to your constant companionship and will find it difficult to cope with you not being around. Make sure to set boundaries right away as far as appropriate actions and ones that are not (no matter how cute the puppy is or how much they complain when you reprimand them).

[Eldorado]

Definatly sleep next to her the first couple of nights. Shes a pup and her bladder is not that big. Every time she whines take her out. Your not gonna get much sleep for a few weeks, but she'll learn real quick to ask. During the day take her out every hour or so. Praise her every time she does it outside. Shell have it figured out in 2 days. How big is the crate? If its too big she may just pick one corner to sleep and the other to...you know. For my shephard mix I used a tall cardboard box the first couple of nights and slept with my hand in it until I felt comfortable that she knew to ask to go out. Remember they wont go where they sleep, but theyll go right next to it! Also, the crate is a happy place. Never ever punish her by putting her in the crate. The crate should be the one place in the whole world where she feels comfortable. This is a connection your really going to have to foster. I just recently got a husky lab mix from the pound. She was a little older (10 mo) and I wanted to crate to avoid the separation thing. It took many days of getting her to go into it, letting her come right back out, getting her back in, leaving her alone in it for 1, then 5, then 10, then 30 minutes while I made noisi around the house, before she began to settle into it. After about 1 yr, we weaned her off the crate and she is the perfect dog when we leave her (and the others) alone in the house for a while. It should be easier for you to get the puppy to love the crate. The thing I can't stress enough is the concept of the happy crate. My brother crated a choclate and though she has been out of the crate for years now, everytime she sees one she jumps in cause she loves it so much. That is a happy crate. Anyway, Good luck!!!

[Billy Clyde Puckett]

Nice looking pup. Spend the time to train it right. Have fun.

[Bronco Jamus]

No tug toys, no rawhide. While they pee or poop tell them hurry and eventually they'll respond to this on command. Above all be consistent with your commands and coresponding hand gestures. A puppy can hold it for as many hours as their age in months plus 1. So when he's 3 months he should be able to hold it for 4 hours. Leash train them immediately. Have the crate there the day you bring them home.


oh....and read this entire page

http://www.sportingdogs4you.com/gett...for_puppy.html

[Bronco Jamus]

Originally Posted by ElwayMD

I would vote against sleeping w/ the puppy for the first couple of nights. The puppy will be accustomed to your constant companionship and will find it difficult to cope with you not being around. Make sure to set boundaries right away as far as appropriate actions and ones that are not (no matter how cute the puppy is or how much they complain when you reprimand them).

Do not sleep with the pup in the bed the first 2 weeks. What I did was to sleep on the floor next to the crate for the first two weeks. Wake up once a night and take the little one out. Always take the pup to the same spot. In fact this should be the first place you bring him when he's brought home. Just let him stay there until he goes. Looks like you'll get him at 10-11 weeks. Take him out ever 3 hours and always to the same spot.

[OABB]

just watch the dog whisperer and you'll be fine.

I use ceaser's tips on my fiance and she's doing a lot better now, so I imagine it works on dogs, too

[BroncoFanatic]

Originally Posted by ElwayMD

I would vote against sleeping w/ the puppy for the first couple of nights. The puppy will be accustomed to your constant companionship and will find it difficult to cope with you not being around. Make sure to set boundaries right away as far as appropriate actions and ones that are not (no matter how cute the puppy is or how much they complain when you reprimand them).

Good advice, I second that

[Dendave]

crate training is the only way to go and always praise the dog for everything she does correct

[orangeatheist]

Thanks all! I knew I'd find good pointers here!

The crate is a 42-incher, but it has a divider panel in it. So, I'll adjust the crate to fit the size of the pup and then move it as she grows.

Also, I won't be sleeping with the dog on a bed (together). What I meant was I'll set up an air mattress near the crate so she won't feel too lonely the first few nights being separated from her mother and littermates. Then, I'll move into the next room for a couple more nights, then finally go back to my own bed upstairs and set the alarm clock to check on her once or twice during the night (let her out for potty breaks).

Sound like a good idea? Or am I obsessing too much??

[Eldorado]

Originally Posted by orangeatheist

Thanks all! I knew I'd find good pointers here!

The crate is a 42-incher, but it has a divider panel in it. So, I'll adjust the crate to fit the size of the pup and then move it as she grows.

Also, I won't be sleeping with the dog on a bed (together). What I meant was I'll set up an air mattress near the crate so she won't feel too lonely the first few nights being separated from her mother and littermates. Then, I'll move into the next room for a couple more nights, then finally go back to my own bed upstairs and set the alarm clock to check on her once or twice during the night (let her out for potty breaks).

Sound like a good idea? Or am I obsessing too much??

Brilliant. No you are not obsessing to much. Sounds like she is getting a wonderful home. Something you should think about early as well is the dog on couch and bed rules. If you don't want her on em, don't ever break the rule. Even when she is just the perfect little lap dog size (which won't be for long, judging by her mom). Same goes for table scraps and begging. Some people are cool with it, and others aren't. Its not a big deal, just be consistent. Get em a little floor bed for the family room and theyre happy. Also I read earlier about the pull toy and rawhide. Very, very good advise. Pull toys can get annoying, especially with a potentially obsessive shepherd and rawhide can kill a dog. Its gets bound up in the intestine and before you know it, the dog is in serious trouble.

Your plan is a good one, that is essentially exactly what I did and I will do it again, based on the results I got. I think as important as the lonlyness thing is sleeping light so that she goes outside when she its time to go. Like I said your not gonna sleep much, but the early investment will pay off huge in the long run.

[Eldorado]

Originally Posted by Bronco Jamus

Do not sleep with the pup in the bed the first 2 weeks. What I did was to sleep on the floor next to the crate for the first two weeks. Wake up once a night and take the little one out. Always take the pup to the same spot. In fact this should be the first place you bring him when he's brought home. Just let him stay there until he goes. Looks like you'll get him at 10-11 weeks. Take him out ever 3 hours and always to the same spot.

Very good advise.

[Eldorado]

Originally Posted by Bronco Jamus

No tug toys, no rawhide. While they pee or poop tell them hurry and eventually they'll respond to this on command. Above all be consistent with your commands and coresponding hand gestures. A puppy can hold it for as many hours as their age in months plus 1. So when he's 3 months he should be able to hold it for 4 hours. Leash train them immediately. Have the crate there the day you bring them home.


oh....and read this entire page

http://www.sportingdogs4you.com/gett...for_puppy.html

More good stuff from Jamus,

[Bronco Jamus]

What I did for the crate separation anxiety is detailed here:
Separation Reflux
For the first night or two don't be surprised if the puppy whimpers or cries at bedtime. Remember he has just been
taken from his mother and litter mates. When separated from their social group, most pups whine, bark, or howl.
These sounds are referred to as distress vocalization. In the wild, these sounds increase the chances that a
puppy will be reunited with his pack. The pups movement is restricted while it is isolated, it will respond with
escape behaviors such as digging, thrashing about, and chewing. These behaviors have obvious benefits for
survival.

RECOMMENDED PROCEDURE

The procedure we use and recommend for inhibiting the separation reflex is based upon several other canine
tendencies. These are the pup's preference to bed down with, or in the presence of, others; to bed down in a
sheltered, den-like atmosphere; and to learn through association. These procedures we recommend as follows:

1. Acquire a collapsible dog crate. The crate should be large enough for the puppy to stand up in and move
around in, (remember puppies grow quickly, so I recommend a large crate, with a divider or cut off baby gate in it
to make it seem smaller).

2. Well before bedtime introduce the pup to the crate by placing several treats (like puppy food) directly in front of
the door and inside the crate. Give a command word like "kennel" or "crate". Let the puppy walk in, then back out
of it, just to get him use to it at first. Then repeat this step again but this time close the door.

3. Leave the room, but remain just outside in order to audit the pup's behavior.

4. At the first indication of any separation responses, intervene with a sharply raised voice. The idea is that the
pup associate its behavior with the startling outcome the behavior produced. Some pups will not respond to a
raised voice. We have found that most respond well to sounds generated by a shaker can (a small coffee can
containing several coins).

5. Usually the pup settles quietly in the crate after three to eight attempts at emotional responses, if they are
followed by a startling sound. After the pup is quiet, keep him inside the crate for about ten minutes. Then let the
puppy out of the crate, pet and praise him. Take the puppy directly outside to eliminate, bring the pup to the same
spot each time. Give him a command word "potty", "go pee-pee" something to that effect. After he has gone to the
bathroom, pet and praise him and tell him "good boy". Bring him back into the house.

6. After an interval of 30-45 minutes, repeat the procedure. During that 30-45 minutes, play with the puppy, give
him lots of attention then extend the pup's quiet time in the crate to about 30 minutes.

7. While the pup is inside the crate, provide one chew toy. Other items such as blankets or newspapers are not
necessary at this point, Also, any collars or leads should be removed to prevent entanglement. Never place food
or water in his crate!

8. By the time bedtime arrives, the pup has already associated being quiet with being inside the crate. Never use
the crate as punishment...

OVERNIGHT ELIMINATION

You should be advised that usually after waking the pup will eliminate. If the pup awakens while inside the crate
and needs to eliminate, it will probably whine or bark, since dogs tend to avoid eliminations in their bedding area
(den effect). The pup can then be taken outside to eliminate.

This procedure does have some disadvantages. A young pup should not be placed in its crate for prolonged
periods of time. During the day, the limit should be 2-3 hours at a time. This is because of the frequent periods of
activity that occur throughout early development, as well as frequent elimination responses. A puppy should not
be crated for long periods of time, if you are going to be away from home for a long period of time, ask someone
you trust to take your puppy outside to eliminate at scheduled intervals. Never leave a older pup for more than 8
hours, he will be cheated of proper exercise and socialization. As a rule, add one to his age in months to equal the
number of hours he can be expected to be in a crate comfortably with out eliminating. For example, a 2 month old
puppy should not be confined for more than 3 hours. If you follow the crate training method, your puppy should
be housebroken between 4 weeks-6 months max.

[Grover]

A lot of good advice so far. It sounds like this pup is going to be a member of your family which is a great thing for everyone IMO. Some folks just want a "guard dog".

I'd suggest checking with your veterinarian to see if there are any "puppy play school" classes. This is a great way to learn about caring for a puppy, also teaching basic things like sit/stay/come. Plus it gets your puppy socialized with other people and puppies. Look for one that uses positive reinforcement, rather than choke collars and punishment.

The best thing I ever learned about dogs was DO NOT PUNISH THEM FOR COMING TO YOU. You always want your dog to come to you when you call him/her. So you call with a happy voice so coming seems fun, and praise and love on them for coming.

[crush17]

Do yourself a big favor and go buy and read this book immediately.

It's called The Art of Raising A Puppy, and it's by the Monks of New Skete.

It is the single best book about raising dogs properly you can ever read. Highly recommended.

http://www.amazon.com/Art-Raising-Pu.../dp/0316578398

[BarefootKicker]

best things you can do... early socialization (lots of other people, lots of other dogs). crate training. stay calm and consistent.

as an aside... let me get on a soapbox for a min... there are thousands of dogs that need a home from rescues and shelters. good dogs don't necessarily have to be from breeders.

[BMF Bronco]

Originally Posted by Meck77

Nice pup. Good idea with the crate. I'd stick with it. I learned my lesson with this old dog. Had some problems with her early on but for 15 years she never had an accident. Now that she's a senior citizen let's just say **** happens from time to time. Zima is now 16 years old but trucking on.


I'm sure you've watched the dog whisperer shows. That's all you need to know. Treat your dog like a dog not a child. You'll be fine. Have fun!

why oh why would you have a picture of this my friend?

[Dendave]

also, if it's going to be around kids, get your dog used to having it's tail pulled, that way when a kid grabs it, she won't snap...my dog doesn't even notice when his tail is pulled anymore.

[kamakazi_kal]

crate train your dog. I've had quite a few since being a kid, just tried the crate about 6 years ago with my current dog........... it will save you a ton of frustration.

It's not cruel. In fact I now leave the crate open and he sleeps in it every night by choice. Natural fit for a den animal.

[Bronco Jamus]

play with his paws everyday

[MaloCS]

Hello. This is my first post on The Mane but what a post to start off with.

If you value the health of your pup you should take a look into the "Raw Food Diet". It's more expensive then traditional wet and dry foods but it is so much more nutritional.

The "Raw Food Diet" consists of fresh vegetables and fresh raw meat from different animals. Our dogs enjoy rabbit, venison, beef, chicken, turkey and fish as well as carrots, lettuce, broccoli, peas, celery, cauliflower, squash and potatoes. The benefits we have experienced have been unbelievable.

The amount of poop we used to clean up has decreased by AT LEAST 50%. Our dogs' coats have more sheen, their teeth don't need cleaning, they're not fat and their breath doesn't stink. Not to mention their energy level is healthy.

I know dogs that have beat illnesses by after switching to the "Raw Food Diet". A good friend of mine had a puppy that was constantly sick and throwing up. After a few months of this he asked me about the "Raw Food Diet" and I gave him some pointers. He started his pooch on canned tuna and canned vegetables which, in his words, cured his dog overnight. No more vomiting, no more sluggishness. He now feeds his dog fresh vegetables and fresh meat. Another dog I knew I knew was going bald. The vets prescibed numerous ointments and medications but the problem never got better. When his owners switched his diet it took all of 1 month for the problem to stop and all of 3 months for his fur to grow back.

The point I'm trying to make is that the foods that are engineered for dogs are extremely processed and loaded with fillers and large amounts of preservatives. These ingredients can cause illness over time and most dogs have some sort of allergic reaction to them (See the case of the balding dog in the previous paragraph). You can eliminate many health issues by feeding your dog a healthy, fresh diet of meat and vegetables.

Hopefully you will be intrigued by my statement and do the research yourself. I truly feel that if you spend a few hours researching the diet on the web you will see that traditional dry and wet dog foods are VERY bad for your pooch over long time exposures.

Good luck.

[Taco John]

Originally Posted by orangeatheist

Ok. It took years, but I finally got around the Great Barrier (wife) and am getting a dog. Picked her from a litter over the weekend but won't be bringing her home until May 20th when she's a bit older (she's 6 weeks now). Here she is:





And here's her mom. The lady we're getting her from said the pup bears a striking resemblance so here's what she'll look like all grown up:



I know there's a lot of dog-lovers on this forum so I sure could use any pointers on raising the pup. I had a Shepherd when I was a kid (died when I was 19) but I didn't raise her. I've got the crate already for housetraining. Got the "clicker". Got toys, brush, etc.

When I bring her home, I'm planning on putting the crate up in the basement (really, the only good place we have) and then I'm going to set up my inflatable mattress and stay down with her the first couple of nights to help her adjust (good idea? Bad?). I work from home so keeping her company shouldn't be a problem.

So, any advice from you experts? THANKS!!

The biggest mistake that I made when I got my dog was not letting it sleep in the same bed as me and my wife on the first night. The puppy is in a strange place, away from it's mother, and then I throw him in a crate in a strange environment? Huge mistake. I was afraid one of us would roll over on the pup, but that fear was unfounded. I should have just put up with it and let the pup sleep with us the first week, and then started to transition him to a crate nearby.

The absolute BEST thing that I did, was read the book Understanding the Dog You Love. You can pick it up on Amazon for a cent, and just pay the shipping. It is the best book I've read on understanding dog psycology. I like to brush up on it once a year. I also buy extra copies of the book to have on hand and give it to family and friends when I find out that they're getting a dog. I've seen too many people haphazardly try to raise a pup and fail at it because they don't understand that THEY are the problem, not the dog.

Then finally, the most important thing is to understand that if you want a good dog, when he's a pup, you need to treat him like you would a child. Spend as much time as you possibly can with it - taking him on walks, playing in the yard, lounging with him on the couch, TALKING to him like it's a person. This is incredibly underrated IMO. As the Alpha, your voice is one of the most powerful tools that you have in raising a good dog. If you use it correctly, it's almost all you'll ever need.

When the dog is a pup, you should never, ever leave it alone if you can possibly help it. Leaving a pup alone is a surefire way to develop unfavorable personality quirks in the dog thanks to seperation anxiety. If you do this right, the dog will be more comfortable being alone in the house as an older dog without problems. But if you condition seperation anxiety in the dog at a young age, you're going to have an uphill battle on your hands to get the animal comfortable with the idea of being without you (and not taking that nervous, anxious energy out on your things).

Good luck!