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Old 03-09-2008, 06:12 PM   #1
WyoLaw
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Default Jalapeno Pepper Plants

Question for any of you green thumbs out there. I have three fully mature jalapeno pepper plants in my office. They seem to flower often but always drop their flowers; resulting in no peppers. I read that I can "self-pollinate" by using a paint brush and touching each flower and then touching another flower. I have tried this and still no luck. Does anyone have any idea how to grow these little peppers?
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Old 03-10-2008, 11:00 PM   #2
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I have never heard of that before...but I found this?

How Do I Pollinate My Plants by Hand?
Tomatoes are self-pollinating but squash, zucchini, pumpkins and other vine crops, produce separate male and female flowers on the same plant and may need assistance in order to produce a crop in times of stress or the absence of insect vectors. It can be a bit time consuming but one can hand-pollinate by using a small artist's paintbrush and touching it to the pollen-bearing stamens in the male flowers and then to the receptive tip of the pistil in the female flower (the one that appears to have a small squash or such at the base).
First, make sure that your plant is producing both male and female flowers before assuming that bees or other insects are not doing their job. Usually, the first flowers are all males and so will fall off without producing fruit. Extreme hot or cold weather can also the production of only male flowers or render pollen ineffective.

If there are both types of flower but the tiny fruit appear to be rotting or dying on the vine, this is a sign of inadequate pollination (also called "fruit abortion"). In addition to the brush method mentioned above, one can simply pick a male bloom, peel off all the flower petals and lightly dust pollen onto the pistils of the females with the male stamen. Several females can be pollinated with one male. It is easiest to do early in the morning when the blooms are open.

You need male and female plants
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Old 03-10-2008, 11:02 PM   #3
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Growing Vegetables in Containers
When garden space is limited, certain varieties of cucumbers, peppers, squash and tomatoes can be easily grown in large containers. But in order to be successful you must first choose those varieties suitable for growing in containers. These varieties generally will not grow too large for a container. The seed packet or seedling tag information should include whether or not the varieties are suitable for container gardening. Most varieties with "bush" or "patio" in their name do well in containers and many determinate varieties of tomatoes will also do well. Indeterminate varieties do not tolerate container growing very well.
The size and type of container is also important to your success. As to size - the larger the better is the best rule of thumb. Most beginning container gardeners choose pots that are far too small and the plant quickly becomes root-bound and dies. This is not a houseplant remember and most vegetables will require a minimum of at least a 5 gallon container. Determinate varieties of tomatoes, peppers and regular sized garden plants prefer the 8-10 gallon range. Half whiskey barrels, wood planters, large black "nursery" plastic pots and bushel baskets can also be used as well as 55 gallon drums cut in half (an ideal size for most). Clay pots tend to be far too small and as they dry out more quickly than plastic, more watering is required. But any container must have drainage holes in the bottom or root rotting will occur. Place a round fiberglass screen of the same shape and size as the pot in the bottom to prevent soil from washing out of the holes and to bar the entry of pests into the pot.

Soil Mix and feeding are the next important factors. Containers need container mix - bagged potting soil, or you can mix the soil to the exact requirements, giving you better growth and production. They require a loose, well-draining soil generous in organic matter. A good mix consists of one part each of potting soil, one part vermiculite, sphagnum peat moss and compost. Garden soil should be avoided as it is likely to be infested with soil pests, bacterial or fungal disease, and drains poorly in containers. When using compost, make sure temperatures during the composting process were high enough to kill pest organisms or you can add a slow release fertilizer by following label recommendations to each pot. This provides additional nutrients slowly over a longer period when there is active growth and fruit production. Additional nutrition will be required more often with containers as nutrients can quickly leach out with the frequent watering needed but avoid high nitrogen fertilizers as it is the fruit you want, not giant plants.

One problem with container growing is that you have to watch the watering more closely. These plants will dry out far more quickly than if they are planted in the ground. Water holding gels or crystals have been developed to help reduce the watering requirements of container plants. These gels can be added to the soil mix or can already be included in the mix. The gels help to retain moisture in the soil until it is needed by the plant and have the advantage or stabilizing soil moisture levels, something that is a common problem with container gardening. Mulching the soil on the top of the container with moss or straw will also help retain soil moisture and prevent soil splashing up onto the leaves and fruit to cause damage.

Staking the Plant can also be a bit more difficult. A wire cage that encases the entire plant and container works well. Depending on the growth habit of the plant, it may be beneficial to stake it to an adjacent fence or rail. Be sure to place any in-pot stakes in the pot before filling with soil and before you plant. There are several types of staking systems to use depending on the plant. Place the container in a site with full sun and protection from the wind. Check the plants daily for watering needs, 2x a day during hot weather. Don't judge watering needs by the surface soil, work your finger deep into the soil to judge need for water. Don't forget the supplemental feeding and to always water the plant BEFORE feeding. Check plants daily for signs of insect and disease, and keep mature fruits harvested to promote continued production.
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Old 03-10-2008, 11:05 PM   #4
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http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/l...232819429.html
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Old 03-10-2008, 11:06 PM   #5
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If all else fails you can wait till OM weekend. I'll be bringing enough Hatch chile for everybody. Hope you can make it

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Old 03-10-2008, 11:10 PM   #6
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Hmmm Chili!
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Old 03-11-2008, 11:56 AM   #7
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Thank you all!
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Old 03-11-2008, 12:17 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sassy View Post

You need male and female plants

Can't expect the "gay" thing to work in the plant world!
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